Saw is starting to come back together, new bearings, shaft is in tight, new “tires” are one, and the blade guide is installed.
Pictures!
Originally I was going to use rubber inner tubes but I ran into a lot of issues with the blade tracking on the wheels. So scrapped that idea and went with wrapping the wheels in hockey tape. Using the tape I built up a hump in the middle of the wheels to help keep the blade stay in place. Built up about an 1/8″ of tape. Also while I was cleaning up the blade guide I noticed that it’s actually made entirely out of brass! The previous owner had painted over the brass …what a dummy, pictures show it all cleaned up and aligned. I decided to check out the wholesale wheels online and just bought new ones.
The saw is basically finished now but I want to change the motor mount, the motor is mounted on a pivot and that’s what caused the old bearings to wear out and wreck the shaft. I will change it to something more rigid setup.
Great to see somebody restauring old machinery. Much more satisfaction working on a machine that took some efford and now works great. Speaking of that, I’ve got the same machine over here, but I can see I’m missing some parts.
There is a little guidewheel behind the saw to stop it shifting back when you push wood into it, but the sideguides are gone. Looking at your pictures (bless the internet!), there are two big wheels, one above and one under the table. Could you please tell me their diameter?
And should the saw run against them as on the pictures or is that before adjusting and should they run against the sides. That would make more sense since for me there is a guidance wheel already…
Hope you can help me out with some information or maybe some detailed pictures and thanks for your contribution on the internet. That already helped me a lot!
Cheers,
Tim
Sorry Tim,
i dont have the saw any longer. All though if you look at this photo you should be able to extrapolate the diameter of the wheel
https://www.kingbain.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20150821_223029.jpg
The blade really shouldnt ride against the side blocks or the blade wheels when its freely spinning.There should be maybe 1/8 to 1/4″ gap between the wheel and the blade. The blade will normally rub against the wheel when your cutting/pushing wood.
Cheers, that’s a very clear picture! You see where the saw is between two metal guidepoles (sorry, I’m Dutch and sometimes I just can’t find the right words in English…)? Mine serve as an axle for a grooved guidewheel, so I guess that’s where somebody in the past made an alternation. I’ll remove that wheel so the original function is restored and make some proper guidewheels like the original one on the lathe to put in the correct places. Makes more sense as that way al the vacant holes are filled.
Thanks again, that helped me out a lot and saved me fabricating what in my mind already started to ne a pretty serious construction with multiple bearings, arms, et cetera.
Regards,
Tim