Fixing my air compressor

Well long story short I picked up a 21 gallon tank with a 2HP direct drive air compressor for 100 bucks. Seller said he has had it for about 5 years and has never had any issues with the air compressor. Brought the air pig home and did an oil change.

Look at what plinks out of the oil:image

Yup thats half a snap ring …fuck me only one place inside the engine that can come from. So after i drained out all the oil(was a fair bit of fine metal shavings) I took the head off and this is what I saw.

image

So yeah, the snap ring that held back the piston wrist pin failed and the wrist pin wore a fairly large groove into the cylinder wall.

Allow me to take the moment to say this, I like fucken around …best parts of my day are spent fucken around but man can I not get a fucken break!?

Anyways I decided I’m gonna do a redneck rebuild and get this bitch pumpen again. Here is the first coat of JB weld on the cylinder wall:image

Used one of the piston rings to follow/scrap along the edge of the cylinder wall to get it as flush as possible. Think i might have to buy a cylinder hone tomorrow from princess.

Gonna let this harden tonight and do a second coat tomorrow.

[How-To] Snow Blower Engine Swap

This is how I swapped the engine in my snow blower for a 6.5 HP Honda GX200 clone. The engine goes by a bunch of different names depending on where you bought it. Champion, Harbor Freight, Princess auto, grey hound clone, blue clone, yellow clone or lifan engines. There almost all the same cloned Honda design.

BTW this was the first project in the new garage … fuck I love my garage

Part 1

This is the old tired 5HP Techumseh with the dual output shafts …boourns

 

This is the new 6.5HP Honda clone… its a 196cc Champion Engine

 

Other people on the internet have done this swap and have always had problems dealing with moving both the auger and friction plate belts to a single shaft … the auger works properly but the friction plate controls are backwards To fix the backward-ness I am gonna flip the gearbox, axles and gear selector linkage.

This is the stock configuration before the flip
 
Here is everything flipped
 
The friction plate engagement cable clears the drive gear and the only issue I can see right now is with the friction wheel guide pin clearance. 
 
The arm that slides the friction wheel along that shaft is bent in such a away that if i left it stock it would hit the friction wheel. My work around for this is to extend the pin which will allow the arm to clear the wheel. I figure i could use something like a bolt of steel pin thats longer so the arm clears.
PART 2
 
Got my engine and pulleys mounted I took the belt tensioner off the old engine but, I wasn’t able to keep it spring loaded … so its more of an idler pulley now.
 
I had to elongate the engine mounting holes to allow me to slide the engine as far forward as possible.
 
Had To
  • Stack of washers is to lift the gear selector arm up about 3/4 of an inch
  • Drilled new holes for the mounting bracket … raise the mounting bracket up an inch.
  • Drilled out the old pin and inserted a longer bolt.
Notice the black lever arm at the very top, its done a 180 flip and now shifts on the other side, this allows me to KEEP all 5 forward speeds and 2 reverse.